The Tao of Timó

Few things are as dismaying as returning to a favorite restaurant and discovering it has slipped. Worse is when you recommend the place to a friend — a needless squandering of their money and your credibility. It occurs with large, corporate-owned ventures that possess the capital to overstaff the kitchen…

Shanghai Rabbi

It’s often theorized that a restaurant’s complimentary bread is a tip-off to the quality of the rest of the meal. If the same is true of the free noodle snacks on Chinese restaurants’ tables, then the irresistibly crisp, freshly fried, wontonlike triangles at the new Mister Chopstik (which also serves…

Cheap Eats – Caribbean Delite

It must be a bit disconcerting for an American to enter Caribbean Delite. The Trinidadian eatery is nestled unassumingly in a generic, largely island-themed strip mall on SW 160th. Reggae blares from the record shop down the way, but the interior of the restaurant is silent, save for the sound…

Eat the Pigskin, Don’t Watch It

Our lame nation spent Sunday coveting the pig skin. Brazil ate it and had a real party. Because a bawdy, sexual parade is about a million times more interesting than two squadrons of men running into each other between expensive tv ads. That said, I decided to celebrate the week…

Inside The Surf Club Kitchen

Winston Churchill painted seascapes from his cabana here. In the 1950s, General Motors debuted their new car models in its grand ballrooms. The club has hosted parties for Douglas Fairbanks, Jr., Douglas MacArthur, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Tony Bennett and Julio Iglesias have sung on…

Cheap Eats: Sabores Chilenos

Where: Sabores Chilenos, 10760 W Flagler St Suite 305, Sweetwater, (305) 554-4484 What $15 Gets You: Churrasco al Plato, Inka Cola, and a pastry or dessert When someone mentions Latin food in Miami, Cuban is the first word that comes to mind. In areas like Sweetwater and Hialeah, there are…

Romeo’s Cafe Turns 10

To celebrate his decade of success, owner Romeo Majano is offering complimentary champagne this Sunday, and each succeeding Sunday through April. Recently rated in the Zagat Guide as “Top Italian” restaurant in Miami, Romeo’s Café, on Coral Way, distinguishes itself via lack of a written menu. Chef Romeo visits each…

Crepe in Paradise

“Crêpes spring eternal in the human breast.” Okay, so it’s actually hope that springs eternal. But it seems at least once a year some plucky local restaurateur gets it into his or her toque to open an establishment devoted to the purveying of these thin, delicate, undeniably sexy little wafers…

Gift of Gab

Brothers Gino and Fernando Masci come to Miami by way of their hometown of Abruzzi, Italy — with a 26-year stopover as owners of Greenwich Village’s renowned and star-studded Il Mulino. They had planned on retiring after they sold that venture five years ago (and before its new owners opened…

Check, Please! Brings Michy to the Airwaves

There is a certain Jorge Luis Borges twist to me, a restaurant critic, critiquing a show whereby average folks play restaurant critic. I’m talking of the first installment of Check, Please!, the PBS series that has met with great success in Chicago and Los Angeles, and hopes to do likewise…

Michelle, Please! Bernstein’s Back on TV, Tonight

Check, Please!, hosted by Miami’s favorite local chef, Michelle Bernstein, makes its debut on PBS (WPBT, Channel 2) tonight at 7:30 p.m. Every episode features three guests who pick their favorite restaurants, then visit the establishments anonymously and offer their critiques back in the studio. I spoke with Michelle over…

Sushi Advisory

This past October, The New York Times purchased tuna sushi from 20 restaurants and markets in New York City and subjected the samples to laboratory tests. The startling results were reported yesterday: Mercury levels of tuna from Nobu Next Door, Sushi Seki, Sushi of Gari, Blue Ribbon Sushi, and Gourmet…

Delicious by Design

That the Miami Design District would soon be “the next big thing” was first suggested to me about two years into Bill Clinton’s presidency. I have heard the same refrain many times since, but whenever I’d venture into the neighborhood, it would display the sort of eerie quietude usually encountered…

Havana Hideaway

No longer just a toll-free way to zip from Miami to Miami Beach, the 79th Street Causeway is becoming a surprisingly hip restaurant row — not a walkable one, but at least a strip with enough interesting eateries to justify the drive. Some of the road’s new charms, though (like…

Tale of Two Meals: Social and Table 8

My right leg is bouncing up and down rapidly, a nervous tick I’ve had since high school. The waiter at Social Miami can not bring my check soon enough, and I cannot run out of this den of condescension and superficiality they call a restaurant fast enough. Social’s website advertises…

New Restaurants Galore

The doors have swung open at Chef Jan Jorgensen and wife Leticia’s TWO CHEFS TOO, the new North Miami outpost of the popular Two Chefs in Pinecrest. Located in the space where Mark’s Place used to be, look for a similar menu as the original, but with the addition of…

Cheap Eats: La Nonna Restaurant

Where: La Nonna Restaurant, 117 SW 107th Ave, Sweetwater. What $15 Gets You: Linguine with garlic, basil pesto sauce, salad, a glass of wine I needed to find a restaurant near school that didn’t serve hamburgers, subs, or anything that even remotely resembled a sandwich, so I asked around. A…

Vin Vision

Not so long ago, the notion of putting a wine bar at the corner of Biscayne Boulevard and NE 69th Street — one that sold something other than Mad Dog and the kind of fortified brake fluid that has to be hidden inside a brown paper bag — would have…

Bargain Bait

Upscale-casual dining establishments compose the fastest growing sector of the restaurant industry. The best ones provide comfortable, attractively designed dining rooms; fresh, flavorful cuisine; cheery service; and family-friendly prices. That’s Bonefish Grill in a clam shell. Alas, there are no clam shells to be found at this new Coral Gables…

Escopazzo Going Greener

“I’ve taken it in steps,” says Giancarla Bodoni, chef and co-owner (with husband Pino) of Escopazzo Organic Italian Restaurant in South Beach. As I noted in my recent review, Escopazzo uses all organic produce and dairy, no farmed fish, and meats that come from animals that have been raised humanely…

The Mile-High Snub

“Celebrity chefs bring plane food to new heights” blared the business section headline in Saturday’s Miami Herald. Charlie Trotter, Todd English, and our own Michelle Bernstein are highlighted in the article as pioneers of haute in-flight cuisine — and also as harbingers of “the airline industry’s economic revival”. Indeed, the…

Cheap Eats: Nice Mon

Where: Nice Mon. 19695 NW 2nd Ave, Miami. What $15 Gets You: Jerk chicken meal, Jamaican beef patty, a drink. As I was traveling down Northwest Second Avenue one day, I noticed this green roofed building with a big yellow sign in front that said Nice Mon: Jamaican Restaurant and…