Food & Drink

I was a young man, alone, in Amsterdam. The third item on my to-do list, after visiting the Heineken brewery and Anne Frank’s house, was to partake of a rijsttafel. I knew nothing about food back then, but the tourist guides insisted that sampling this Dutch-Indonesian specialty was a must…

Certain kinds of eateries are irresistible to certain types of restaurant reviewers. What I can’t pass up is weirdness — places that serve unlikely, usually global combinations. This siren song somehow persists perennially for me, even though decades of exploration (in joints ranging from New York’s first Japanese/French restaurants to…

Ten Misconceptions About Barbecue: 1. Grilled and barbecued foods are ideal for summertime. I don’t think so. I mean it sure doesn’t feel ideal standing over a hot outdoor grill in simmering midsummer Miami. In fact it feels pretty gritty and more than a little insane. And fatty, smoky, heavy…

Oh, Lord, not another Italian restaurant!” “Yes, Bill, another Italian restaurant. But be of good faith and despair not, for verily and forsooth I say unto you that you will not have to consume one more crappy caesar salad — I can see Julius rotating in his grave already —…

If there could be such a thing as an upside to war, it would be the exchange of culinary ideas that takes place between clashing nations. Had our soldiers not developed a taste for pizza while they were stationed in Naples during World War II, who knows if those Italian…

Cruising through the crowd at Doraku during a recent Friday happy hour, a diner who had not been to this SoBe sushi spot since it opened in 2000 wouldn’t have even a hint it was the same space. A room that began life as a pop-art hallucination — amoebalike primary-color…

A gaping hole has appeared in the Miami dining scene, and it is being stuffed with meat. Norman’s, Pacific Time, Johnny V, and a host of other chef-driven establishments have closed during the past year. Filling in are DeVito chop house, Grimpa’s Steakhouse featuring rodizio from Brazil, Texas de Brazil…

When you think of neighborhoods, the sprawling, traffic-gagged morass of Kendall doesn’t exactly leap to mind. Neighborhoods are bucolic little areas with quiet, tree-lined streets, full of quaint old buildings and cute new boutiques, where everyone knows everyone and says hi when they run into each other at the store…

In just the past year, if the food media are to be believed, Miami’s dining scene has gone from being the very picture of promising adolescence — about to finally grow up — to going to Hell in a hand basket. Suddenly it’s a place that is, according to some…

Everybody loves Danny DeVito. As Louie De Palma on Taxi, he was hairier, scarier, but just as cute as Knut the polar bear. In most of his films, too, DeVito comes across as a likable rascal, a diminutive Everyman with a conniving dark side — which we laugh at because…

Since its extensive renovation in 1997, the Tides South Beach hotel has anchored the north end of Ocean Drive with a graceful and stately presence. A number of respectable chefs have ably steered the property’s signature restaurant, 1220 at the Tides, but they’ve come and gone like the ebb and…

You know what kind of guy Pilar is. Nice guy. Good-looking, quiet. Dresses well, not flashy. Solid, honest; no cheesy come-ons. Other guys might have more money, a fancier car, firmer pecs. But when it comes time to stand and deliver, well, let’s just say he stands up straight and…