In Memory

Not the way I like to think about starting the new year: Marina Polvay, food writer, cookbook author, and PR rep for local restaurants, passed away on December 2. A colorful figure with strong, honest opinions, she claimed a background of Russian royalty and was known for her expertise on…

Open Haus

South Beach’s favorite (and only) Austrian/German pub and eatery, formerly a teeny, cavernous room on Alton Road and Ninth Street, is now housed in a far roomier space two blocks north, just up the street from Wild Oats Market. Most everything else about Dab Haus remains the same — the…

It’s a Glutton’s World

Like all good gourmands, I appreciate excess. And our friendly, neighborhood Disney World (oh, okay, so it’s four hours’ drive time) is the epitome — ironically in the land of “It’s a Small World,” everything is bigger, longer, brighter, hotter, and more expensive than its counterpart on the regular ol’…

Barton Gee!

Those who know of Barton Gerald Weiss’s reputation as the event impresario with an inclination for multisensory, over-the-top theatrics will probably be surprised by the subtle brown and bronze earth tones that swathe the tasteful, relatively restrained décor of Barton G the Restaurant. I say “relatively” because the 155-seat dining…

The Purpose of Pupusas

Although the cuisines of different but neighboring Latin American countries certainly differ more than the cuisines of, say, Vermont and New Hampshire, many individual dishes seem like variations on a similar base. Thus El Salvador’s pupusas (stuffed cornmeal pancakes) are somewhat like a cross between Mexican corn tortillas and Venezuelan…

Afternoon DIY Delight

Maybe it’s due to Dickens and Tiny Tim, maybe it’s all those British-origin Christmas carols full of hearty tidings of comfort and joy — the warm ‘n’ fuzzy fascination with Merrie Olde England felt by most Americans (including Latin Americans, if the astonishingly positive feedback to a review I did…

Baby Food For Angels

I have to admit my appreciation for Arab culture skyrocketed when I discovered that they invented sorbet. It’s true — the Chinese taught them how to make sweet syrup from puréed fruit, and the Arabs took this knowledge to Sicily, combined these syrups with snow from Mount Etna, and called…

You Wish!

Perhaps it’s the fact that Hanukkah happens so early this year. Or the amount of spare time I’ve suddenly had in the evenings after I canceled out on several events, the result of a terrible case of asthma-inducing bronchitis. (An illness that one deserves after a weekend skipping around Disney’s…

Gimme Eighties Gourmet!

This original low-rise Deli Lane (there’s a newer branch on Brickell, on the ground floor of one of downtown’s skyscrapers) has been around since the 1980s, making it one of Miami’s first purveyors of gentrified yuppie food: quiches and similar light entrées, vegetable salads consisting of lettuces other than iceberg,…

Local Joint Lights Up

One of the world’s less-pleasant sounds is the dismissive grunt of a New Yorker as he or she proclaims the pizza in some part of America to be an inedible parody of the real thing that they, thank God, are privy to in their great city. It’s not that this…

Diner Might

What the world needs now is love sweet love, but what Miami Beach needs is affordable restaurants. The recently opened Alton Road Café fits the inexpensive bill, though it’s more diner, or coffee shop, than restaurant or café. The space was previously an IHOP (attached to the 41st Street Howard…

Naughty, Naughty Cognac

The days when Florida was the last to get wind of a trend are over. So over, in fact, that folks like Cyril Camus, fifth-generation cognac producer, chose Miami over New York and Los Angeles to launch the “new generation” product, Camus 4U. The 31-year-old marketing and development director of…

Left of the Corporate Center

By definition, fine-dining chefs aren’t your average day-jobbers. Their hours are mostly converse to those experienced by the rest of the vocational world. Their kitchen society is a caste, made up of which group has the right to instruct another bunch on how to chop onions. Their duties can range…

New Deli Arrival

It seemed not inappropriate to me that the recent opening of Jerry’s Famous Deli, in the sleek South Beach space long occupied by the nightclub Warsaw, was accompanied by the kind of media brouhaha normally reserved for the premiere of exclusive restaurant/lounges co-owned by celebrities. The prospect of great hot…

Please Eat The Daisies

Yep, holiday gift-giving season has arrived, want it or not. And what will all of you workaholics who’re too busy to shop be giving this year — a bouquet of flowers … again? Since this isn’t the flora but the food section of the newspaper, let’s talk about fruit flowers,…

Reshaping South Beach

The townhouse was a novelty on South Beach. The first of its kind to be conceptualized, it was one of only five units. With three bathrooms, three bedrooms, two balconies, two covered parking spaces, and a location two blocks north of then-burgeoning Lincoln Road, the numbers made so much sense…

The Top Texan

You wouldn’t think that giving diners what they want would be a particularly unique strategy for operating a restaurant. Even those with no experience in the hospitality field would no doubt assume that pleasing customers is something every potential restaurateur would seriously focus upon from day one. Yet this apparently…

Final Episode: Taming of the Screw

For perhaps the tenth time in the last month, I opened a bottle of tainted wine a few nights ago. The 2001 Sauvion Pouilly-Fumé, a generally reliable white wine made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes grown in the Loire Valley, had clearly gone off. The cause, most likely, was either oxidation…

The Politics of Drinking and Dining

Under the heading of Most Incredulous Incentive, the “Eat The Vote” campaign kicks off in Fort Lauderdale November 1. Show your Florida voter’s reg card (yes, it must be valid) or proof of voting in the November 5 election, and you’ll be eligible to receive various freebies — drinks, desserts,…

Who New, Doraku

If you look very hard high up on the ceiling of Doraku, a sophisticated spot with minimalist mode-of-the-moment décor (relying largely on the natural elegance of contrasting polished woods), like a Terence Conran-type take on a traditional Japanese teahouse, you will notice that the subdued mesh-muted lights appear to be…

Heavy Hop Fest

Here we are on the cusp of November, and I’m just getting around to writing about Oktoberfest. Very tardy on my part — after all, we know that Oktoberfest takes place in September. What’s that? You thought it took place in October? Jeez — we better start from the beginning…

Kosher + Gourmet = Tasty

As a food reviewer who does not keep kosher (I’m not Jewish), but who fields many requests for truly tasty kosher noshes from diners who do, I was excited early this year when new Kosher Gourmet opened with ads touting two things that run-of-the-mill kosher bakeries rarely have: prepared foods…