Shanghai Rabbi

It’s often theorized that a restaurant’s complimentary bread is a tip-off to the quality of the rest of the meal. If the same is true of the free noodle snacks on Chinese restaurants’ tables, then the irresistibly crisp, freshly fried, wontonlike triangles at the new Mister Chopstik (which also serves…

Cheap Eats – Caribbean Delite

It must be a bit disconcerting for an American to enter Caribbean Delite. The Trinidadian eatery is nestled unassumingly in a generic, largely island-themed strip mall on SW 160th. Reggae blares from the record shop down the way, but the interior of the restaurant is silent, save for the sound…

Cheap Eats: Sabores Chilenos

Where: Sabores Chilenos, 10760 W Flagler St Suite 305, Sweetwater, (305) 554-4484 What $15 Gets You: Churrasco al Plato, Inka Cola, and a pastry or dessert When someone mentions Latin food in Miami, Cuban is the first word that comes to mind. In areas like Sweetwater and Hialeah, there are…

Crepe in Paradise

“Crêpes spring eternal in the human breast.” Okay, so it’s actually hope that springs eternal. But it seems at least once a year some plucky local restaurateur gets it into his or her toque to open an establishment devoted to the purveying of these thin, delicate, undeniably sexy little wafers…

Gift of Gab

Brothers Gino and Fernando Masci come to Miami by way of their hometown of Abruzzi, Italy — with a 26-year stopover as owners of Greenwich Village’s renowned and star-studded Il Mulino. They had planned on retiring after they sold that venture five years ago (and before its new owners opened…

Delicious by Design

That the Miami Design District would soon be “the next big thing” was first suggested to me about two years into Bill Clinton’s presidency. I have heard the same refrain many times since, but whenever I’d venture into the neighborhood, it would display the sort of eerie quietude usually encountered…

Havana Hideaway

No longer just a toll-free way to zip from Miami to Miami Beach, the 79th Street Causeway is becoming a surprisingly hip restaurant row — not a walkable one, but at least a strip with enough interesting eateries to justify the drive. Some of the road’s new charms, though (like…

Cheap Eats: La Nonna Restaurant

Where: La Nonna Restaurant, 117 SW 107th Ave, Sweetwater. What $15 Gets You: Linguine with garlic, basil pesto sauce, salad, a glass of wine I needed to find a restaurant near school that didn’t serve hamburgers, subs, or anything that even remotely resembled a sandwich, so I asked around. A…

Vin Vision

Not so long ago, the notion of putting a wine bar at the corner of Biscayne Boulevard and NE 69th Street — one that sold something other than Mad Dog and the kind of fortified brake fluid that has to be hidden inside a brown paper bag — would have…

Bargain Bait

Upscale-casual dining establishments compose the fastest growing sector of the restaurant industry. The best ones provide comfortable, attractively designed dining rooms; fresh, flavorful cuisine; cheery service; and family-friendly prices. That’s Bonefish Grill in a clam shell. Alas, there are no clam shells to be found at this new Coral Gables…

Cheap Eats: Nice Mon

Where: Nice Mon. 19695 NW 2nd Ave, Miami. What $15 Gets You: Jerk chicken meal, Jamaican beef patty, a drink. As I was traveling down Northwest Second Avenue one day, I noticed this green roofed building with a big yellow sign in front that said Nice Mon: Jamaican Restaurant and…

A New Sushi Hero

Sushi Club is located in an area of Miami Beach often referred to as “Little Buenos Aires.” But don’t expect the cutting-edge black and orange décor, loungelike ambiance, valet parking, live DJ, Thai and Vietnamese dishes, or all-you-can-eat sushi offered by the famous Sushi Club chain in, um, Big Buenos…

Michael’s Kitsch-en

Big fat Americans like big fat food. That’s why God gave us The Cheesecake Factory. Michael’s Kitchen, a hit in Hollywood before its relocation last month to the Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort in Sunny Isles Beach, is a step above that cheesy chain but shares the same cuisine-as-circus-act sensibility…

Escopazzo Goes Organic

When Alice Waters recently appeared at Books & Books to tout her new book, The Art of Simple Food: Notes, Lessons, and Recipes from a Delicious Revolution, she was asked if there were any restaurants in Miami that seemed to be following her organic canon. The prophetess of slow food…

Give Thai a Try

One day the country’s learned gastronomes should study the gravitational pull of sushi in Thai restaurants. Is it some sort of sexy come-on? “Hey, big boy, wanna hand roll?” Savvy marketing ploy? “Buy two green papaya salads, get one California roll free! But wait, there’s more!” Out-and-out bribery? “Congressman, I’ll…

The Year in Dining

So many things seemed to go wrong with the Miami dining scene this year. First there were the big-name closures, most notably Norman’s, Pacific Time, Chispa, David Bouley Evolution, and Johnny V South Beach. Then an onslaught of national chains poured in at a pace heretofore not seen in these…

Well Done

Like the West Coast’s renowned In-N-Out Burger chain, the East Coast’s Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries has distinctive retro Fifties décor. In fact the motif is so similar, down to the red-and-white-checked walls, that the California chain, family-owned since 1948, allegedly once considered a copycat suit against Five Guys…

Cheap Eats: Hops Grill and Brewery

Where: Hops Grill and Brewery , 1155 Pines Blvd., Pembroke Pines, (954) 441-4599 What $15 Gets You: Smothered Chicken Marsala, side of vegetables, side of fries, and a drink of your choice. The food at Hops wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t great either. It was standard. Keeping in mind that…

Two Americas

It is, in short, a great time to be an eater.” So writes David Kamp in The United States of Arugula, and as his book’s subtitle suggests, “The Sun-Dried, Cold-Pressed, Dark-Roasted, Extra Virgin Story of the American Food Revolution” celebrates the availability of comestibles that far surpass anything “our grandparents…

Merry Tapas

We all know what time of year it is: Lots of sleigh bells tinkling and herald angels singing, ye faithful coming and shepherds quaking, not to mention a downright orgy of fa-la-la-la-la-ing, rum-pum-pum-pumming, and — for Santa’s sake — buy, buy, buying so everyone at the local mall doesn’t wind…

Cheap Eats: La Estancia Argentina

Where: La Estancia Argentina, 17870 Biscayne Blvd., Aventura. (305) 932 6477 What $15 gets you: prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich, your choice of sides, drink, and dessert. La Estancia Argentina isn’t just a restaurant. It’s actually also a general store, which specializes in Argentinean food. The whole concept is strangely inviting,…

Gift Wrap

A restorative mystery smoothie called a Grape Fizz, dropped off by sympathetic friends on one of those all-work-no-play days, is what originally induced me to further explore five-month-old Lemon Fizz. The remarkably refreshing, rich elixir was possibly the most satisfying smoothie I’d ever downed. An in-person look at the menu…