Chain Reaction

Mary Brickell Village still isn’t much of a village, with many of the storefronts as empty as the concept of a downtown urban mall. Think of it more as a quaint clustering of that rapidly replicating creature known as the casual-upscale restaurant chain. On the plus side, Brickell Village has…

Down the Middle

If you go by the menus of the Italian restaurants in our little town, you can only conclude that one of the world’s most glorious and diverse cuisines consists mainly of pizza, fried calamari, pasta with red sauce, and tiramisu. Italy’s great artisanal and regional specialties — hand-crafted salumi and…

Reincarnation Salvation

When was the last time you ate chicken tikka masala on a rustic riverfront deck, as a manatee drifted by and a footlong, eye-poppingly bright green lizard watched you from under a nearby table? It was probably the last time you ate at Taj Mahal, though this colorful Indian restaurant…

Burgers and Pies

The most utterly predictable comment from a New Yorker in a Miami pizzeria: “It’s not like a New York slice.” Culprits often cited are humidity, water quality, and brand of canned tomatoes. In fact, the real deal has been available for about a year and a half at Primo Pizza,…

Bourbon Buzz

“Fine dining” once conjured images of elegant salons, white-glove service, and the type of meals you would never, and could never, cook at home. Nowadays it is a label affixed to restaurants that charge a lot of money. Bourbon Steak is a contemporary American steak house, and as such does…

Unchained Charmer

When it comes to chain restaurants, Miami diners are like masochists at a convention of sadists. Steak house, Mexican, Italian, Chinese. Seafood, burgers, chicken, hot dogs. Chains are the culinary equivalent of the undead, sucking much of the quirky, weird, wonderful life out of preparing food for the nourishment and…

Cheap Eats: LC’s Roti Shop

Where: LC’s Roti Shop, 19505 NW 2nd Ave, Miami Gardens. What $15 Gets You: A chicken roti, a sugar cake, a doubles, and a Coke. Caribbean cuisine is hard to define because of the mixing of cultures that exist in the area generally referred to as the Caribbean. When a…

Wine and Food Fest Pops the Cork

The 70th annual Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival gets under way Thursday. I mean seventh — it just feels longer because the whole shebang has gotten so big so fast. In fact it was only in 2002 that Lee Brian Schrager, director of special events and media…

Space Saver

Before Hurricane Wilma blew out all the windows of the Conrad Hotel’s 25th-floor lobby/restaurant, the space consisted of intimate 80-seat formal restaurant Atrio; Bar Noir, a dark corner lounge whose vibe was more Hernando’s Hideaway than happy hour; and a huge, high-ceilinged atrium comprising a couple of sofas and a…

Cheap Eats – Japanese Market Inc.

Where: Japanese Market Inc. 1412 79th Street Cswy North Bay Village, (305) 861-0143 What you get for $15: The Deluxe Sushi combination (8 pieces Nigiri) plus a fat beer. Sushi in this town sucks. It’s either prohibitively expensive or poorly done or some combination of the two. Fortunately for us…

Cheap Eats: American Adobo

Where: American Adobo, 633 NE 125th St., Miami What $15 Gets You: Teriyaki chicken, longaniza, rice, cabbage soup and a Coke Don’t let the name American Adobo fool you, the only thing American in this restaurant is the ketchup. The restaurant focuses on Filipino cuisine. As me and my friend…

Jumping the Snapper

Remember macadamia-crusted yellowtail snapper in mango sauce? And papaya salsa, yuca mash, and a single plantain chip rising Iwo Jima-style from the plate? Ah, the bad old days. Not that New Florida cuisine wasn’t a noble concept at the start, but it reached the point where you couldn’t enter a…

The Last Detail

If the devil is in the details, Little Saigon is a church. For years this North Miami Beacher has been one of the few bright lights in the local Asian dining scene, which is otherwise inhabited by mostly terrible Chinese restaurants, mediocre Thai eateries, and dozens of roll-by-numbers sushi joints…

Cheap Eats: DJ’s Diner

Where: DJ’s Diner (Best Western Windsor Inn), 12210 Biscayne Boulevard, Miami. What $15 Gets You: A Mexican-style burger, fries, mozzarella sticks, and a drink. DJ’s Diner at the Best Western Windsor Inn on 12210 Biscayne Boulevard is easy to overlook as most people are usually speeding by on that street…

The Tao of Timó

Few things are as dismaying as returning to a favorite restaurant and discovering it has slipped. Worse is when you recommend the place to a friend — a needless squandering of their money and your credibility. It occurs with large, corporate-owned ventures that possess the capital to overstaff the kitchen…

Shanghai Rabbi

It’s often theorized that a restaurant’s complimentary bread is a tip-off to the quality of the rest of the meal. If the same is true of the free noodle snacks on Chinese restaurants’ tables, then the irresistibly crisp, freshly fried, wontonlike triangles at the new Mister Chopstik (which also serves…

Cheap Eats – Caribbean Delite

It must be a bit disconcerting for an American to enter Caribbean Delite. The Trinidadian eatery is nestled unassumingly in a generic, largely island-themed strip mall on SW 160th. Reggae blares from the record shop down the way, but the interior of the restaurant is silent, save for the sound…

Cheap Eats: Sabores Chilenos

Where: Sabores Chilenos, 10760 W Flagler St Suite 305, Sweetwater, (305) 554-4484 What $15 Gets You: Churrasco al Plato, Inka Cola, and a pastry or dessert When someone mentions Latin food in Miami, Cuban is the first word that comes to mind. In areas like Sweetwater and Hialeah, there are…

Crepe in Paradise

“Crêpes spring eternal in the human breast.” Okay, so it’s actually hope that springs eternal. But it seems at least once a year some plucky local restaurateur gets it into his or her toque to open an establishment devoted to the purveying of these thin, delicate, undeniably sexy little wafers…

Gift of Gab

Brothers Gino and Fernando Masci come to Miami by way of their hometown of Abruzzi, Italy — with a 26-year stopover as owners of Greenwich Village’s renowned and star-studded Il Mulino. They had planned on retiring after they sold that venture five years ago (and before its new owners opened…

Delicious by Design

That the Miami Design District would soon be “the next big thing” was first suggested to me about two years into Bill Clinton’s presidency. I have heard the same refrain many times since, but whenever I’d venture into the neighborhood, it would display the sort of eerie quietude usually encountered…