Of all the significant trends in the food world over the last decade of the last century, the most exciting for travelers was the revolution in hotel cuisine. And encouragingly, it wasn’t just in sophisticated cities that hotel restaurants transformed from lowest-common-denominator food factories for tasteless (presumably) tourists into kitchens…
Fast food is, in essence, a less expensive mockery of real food. In the case of the Texas Taco Factory, the fare is twice removed from reality. It caricatures Tex-Mex, which is itself a bastardization of Mexican. In a way this extra degree of separation works to its advantage: The…
The SouthSide Café is located across the street from the Shops at Sunset Place, which really is the restaurant’s raison d’être. The menu, modeled toward accommodating families accustomed to eating at chain restaurants like the Cheesecake Factory, is well balanced, with a wide selection of soups, salads, wood-oven pizzas, and…
When some old friends came to visit recently and wanted to know the scoop on the Beach’s hottest new restaurants, I immediately mentioned The Strand. “That’s been around forever,” said Jennifer, a former South Beach denizen. It’s true, having opened more than a dozen years ago, the old and beloved…
I’ve always wanted to write an article about a scandalous “gate.” I once was tempted to pen a “Tomatogate” piece after being subjected to one pale, plastic-tasting monstrosity after another, but the subject matter didn’t seem solemn enough. Then the incident at Thai Toni occurred. It reeked of gate-ness. As…
Imagine a restaurant with horrible food, lousy service, exorbitant prices, and an arrogant maitre d’ who just for the hell of it kicks you in the seat of the pants on your way out the door. The Miami Herald would give this place their lowest assessment: “Satisfactory.” Therein lies just…
Take a stroll down Lincoln Road, and though you might not think it’s exactly Anywhere, U.S.A. (Victoria’s Secret hasn’t moved into the Miami City Ballet’s former space yet), you could be justified in calling it Anywhere, Europe. That’s because the hosts of the various restaurants have begun doing what the…
A recent New Yorker article about life in restaurant kitchens, written by a professional chef, contained the confession that he and those in the food business regard vegetarians “and their Hezbollah-like splinter faction, the vegans,” as “enemies of everything that’s good and decent in the human spirit. To live life…
The food is as good as ever, only now it’s kosher. Yes, Tani Guchi’s Place in North Miami, which twice was named best sushi joint by New Times, began serving glatt kosher food about eight months ago, just a few weeks after Passover. Why? That might be the obvious question…
Tinny pings of sitar music tinkle through the air at Anokha, Coconut Grove’s first Indian restaurant, while waiters in white gauze shirts carry trays of aromatic food through the dimly lit, 40-seat dining room. It’s a simply decorated space, with none of the heavy draperies and dusty Eastern artifacts prevalent…
It seems like only months ago that the new restaurant Oaxaca was moving into the 26-seat space on Washington Avenue now occupied by Ernie’s Amazing Burgers. As a matter of fact, it was just a few months ago. But Oaxaca is no more. Never was, really. For unknown reasons the…
Not long ago I called Ruth’s Chris Steak House and asked for directions to its new location in Coral Gables. It was a Tuesday evening, South Florida hadn’t yet been overwhelmed by high-season tourists, and I assumed dinner reservations would not be necessary. So I was not prepared when the…
Okay, enough with the griping about the dearth of Asian restaurants in this town. Without a significant Asian migration, it’s unlikely we’ll get a cheap Vietnamese noodle shop on every corner, enough Korean barbecue to really make a choice, a taste of southern Indian Tamil cooking, or spicy Malaysian curries…
Pastis is an anise-flavor liqueur popular throughout the south of France, particularly on the Côte d’Azur in Provence. Locals there have even worked the word pastis into their dialect, using it to mean “confused,” or “mixed,” a definition that is derived from the cloudy appearance of the drink when water…
There’s a lot of Italian out there: the new and old, the good, the bad, and the ugly; the great, unfortunately, seem to be rare. I do think there are a few restaurants in town turning out exquisite cuisine from Europe’s boot. And there are plenty of decent places for…
I’ve never been a dim sum enthusiast: Peppery octopus, steamed shrimp balls, and other such delicacies are not my cup of tea come weekend brunch. Neither, for that matter, is a cup of tea. So it was with some trepidation that I recently trekked along with friends for dim sum,…
(The story thus far: Efrain Veiga, of Yuca renown, announces plans for Mayya restaurant in Albion Hotel; partners include former big-league baseball player Billy Bean and Latin TV star Cristina Saralegui. Minimalist décor costs maximumist dollars — more than two million. Mexican-born Guillermo Tellez, having honed skills with illustrious Charlie…
When Beatlenut first opened last winter, neither I nor any of my foodie friends were tempted to try it, for one main reason: the nauseatingly cutesy misspelling of the name. The betel nut, the natural mood stimulant that Bloody Mary (the amply fed Hawaiian earth mama to all singing sailors)…
The stone crab “has a shell harder than a landlord’s heart,” wrote Damon Runyon, back in the days when Joe’s Stone Crabs was the only place on the Beach to get them. Many would say Joe’s is still the only place for stone crabs, but they’re speaking figuratively. Monty’s has…
The fat cows have new neighbors: Tango Beef Café has settled in across the street from the popular Normandy Isles parillada, Las Vacas Gordas. Tango Café is a parillada as well. Loosely translated it means “place where meats are grilled” Argentine style, which refers not only to the side of…
Franz & Josephs opened last December with little fanfare: no stars, no multimedia PR campaign, no famous chefs or fanciful themes. Seems they’re intent on succeeding with a comforting ambiance, reliable service, and good (though not exceptional), moderately priced food. Sounds a little far-fetched, I know, but supposedly millions of…
To label Barroco Restaurant simply Brazilian would be like calling Caffe Abbracci a pasta joint. Unlike the churrasco houses that are sprouting up from New York to Los Angeles, here you won’t find any strolling meat carvers wielding sharp knives and hunks of flesh. No skewers of chicken hearts. Not…
