Many people find big, noisy, sophisticated eateries intimidating. I, on the other hand, am scared of the small, cozy, intimate kind. The fewer seats in the restaurant, I figure, the more likely it is the diner will be noticed. The clang of your cutlery echoes off the walls. Your conversations…
I was already planning on grabbing a bite at Tempo in North Miami Beach when an old high school friend of mine from New Jersey called. “I’m in Miami,” she said. “Wanna do dinner?” I couldn’t have engineered a better coincidence. I spent more time with this woman sitting in…
Catering and restaurateuring are similar occupations. Both involve serving tasty meals to finicky clientele. Both require putting in punishing hours. Both demand creativity. It should follow, then, that the skills learned in these jobs are interchangeable A that the caterer who so desires can also be a restaurateur, and vice…
I don’t ever want to be mistaken for a tourist in this town. Unless I’m on Ocean Drive, in which case I don’t want to be mistaken for a local. On Ocean Drive, tourists have the advantage. They don’t get asked for directions. They don’t get annoyed when boutique-keepers ask…
As a young girl, I was sick frequently enough that my mother and I developed a ritual: On the way home from the doctor’s office, pockets full of penicillin, we would stop off at a little Cantonese place around the corner. Forget chicken broth. Strep throat, flu, tonsillitis — whatever…
I’m watching The Sound of Music for the zillionth time, and I’m craving Greek cuisine. Okay, I know edelweiss are hardly reminiscent of olive trees, even when they’re in bloom. And I’m perfectly aware that while the Von Trapp children may sing and dance, they don’t end their performances with…
In a recent Vogue magazine article, hotelier Ian Schrager told writer Charles Gandee that his newly renovated property, the 238-room Delano Hotel, “has zero to do with South Beach — absolutely zero. I wouldn’t invest millions of dollars based upon the continued existence of models walking up and down Ocean…
First-time restaurateurs Michael Edges and James Sands didn’t intend to situate their South African eatery on Las Olas Boulevard. Their concept, they felt, was ideal for the Miami market, where funkiness is unquestionably embraced. But rents were too high, even for relatively out-of-the-way locations in Coconut Grove and on South…
I met a chef for dinner at Two Sisters Restaurant. A happy coincidence, which I discovered when I got there: He had helped open the restaurant in 1987. Glancing around the stately stone and marble dining room, accented by a square bar at one end and a long open kitchen…
When it comes to eating out, I’m a trouble magnet. If there’s food to be dropped, it’ll be my dinner that hits the floor. If there’s water to be spilled on someone’s lap, my lap will be the one drenched. A reservation gets lost? That’d be mine, too. Really, such…
“Wow. This really sucks.” My companion gazed at the brokenscape that is now Lincoln Road: muddy rubble where red sidewalks once were, chicken wire and barricades to keep pedestrians at bay, hardhat-yellow heavy machinery parked everywhere. “When did Lincoln Road become Biscayne Boulevard?” Jackhammers broke ground on the $16 million…
When an established restaurant opens a branch, habitues of the original location quite naturally anticipate an equivalent culinary experience at the new address. I never actually reviewed Las Rias Gallegas, a budget Spanish seafood restaurant in Coral Gables. But I ate there often when it opened across from my former…
I’ve learned English composition from teaching assistants. I’ve had my teeth cleaned by dental interns. I’ve had my hair styled by beauticians-in-training. So I guess it was no great stretch for me to entrust my appetite to culinary school students. Chef & Apprentice is Johnson & Wales University’s practicum facility,…
Soon after I learned to read, I discovered that good food makes good words taste even better. From then on, I could never thoroughly enjoy a book without a snack in hand, and the two pastimes — reading and eating — became inexorably linked in my mind. That almost subconscious…
A friend of mine who’d just returned to the States from Dublin warned me that Murphy’s Law Irish Pub & Restaurant is a pseudo-pub. An impostor. I could see what he meant: The design of the place, located on McFarlane Road next door to Senor Frog’s, is too polished. Granted,…
I’ve heard Kerry Simon thinks I hate him. If he harbors that suspicion, it’s probably due to the unfavorable opinions I expressed in these pages about Starfish, the restaurant he launched with partner Debbie Ohanian in 1993. But really, it’s nothing personal. I was crazy about his Blue Star, the…
Before my visit earlier this month, the last dinner I’d ingested in one of the musty restaurants in Miami Beach’s landmark Eden Roc Resort & Spa was Glatt kosher Chinese. No pork or shellfish in any of the dishes, just a plethora of garlicky, peppered cabbage. An ughly experience I…
Zapata’s Place slugs the front of its menu with this slogan: “The First Authentic Mexican Gourmet Food in Florida.” That’s a pretty bold claim for this North Miami newcomer to make. Surely somewhere in Florida there’s an honest-to-goodness gourmet Mexican eatery that has been in business for more than six…
Douglas Rodriguez is the man. He’s a player. He’s got it goin’ on. The former Yuca chef-partner and originator of nuevo cubano cuisine could have easily suffered from small fish/big pond syndrome when he left the restaurant in 1993 to start his own operation. Though he’d looked at several possible…
The Old Cutler Oyster Co. & Raw Bar (O.C.’s to its many fans) may be the most delayed comeback story in the annals of Hurricane Andrew lore. The family-style seafood restaurant was a five-year-old storefront in the Old Cutler Towne Center before being leveled by the big wind. When Doc…
A restaurateur often experiences an understandable preoccupation with his restaurant, particularly if he spends every minute nurturing it, christens it with his own name, or takes dramatic steps to prevent its death. Should he choose (or be forced) to sell it too early — say, in the first few years…
New York Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl kicked off a recent food/travel piece about Chinese food in Los Angeles’s San Gabriel Valley with the words, “It is Friday night and I have just eaten my twelfth meal in 36 hours. I’m a little full and sort of hoping that the…
